FIRST AND LAST

Our FIRST rain storm of the new waterfall season was a whopper. Where else would I go for my first waterfall hike of the new season except to my favorite river, the North Fork American River. We got 2.5 inches of rain on Friday, and the river was up on Saturday morning, but not as high as I thought it might go. Nonetheless, it was high enough. High enough for a rainy day hike and to find a new waterfall in the process.

It is a long hike down to the falls, yet only 4.5 miles. Starting my hike at 7AM, I hoped to get down to it in 2 hours. That seems reasonable, does it not? But at 10AM, I was still quite a distance from the waterfall, and I almost turned back. The terrain was getting steep and brushy, I was hiking through the woods with no more trail to follow, I was soaking wet from hiking through the brush, and there was a big storm coming in the afternoon. I wanted to be back at the car before that started. However, I continued on; it could not be much further, could it? I finally got down to the falls around 10:30AM.

Technically it is a not a “new” waterfall. Kayakers have gone over this falls before, but access for “normal” people is pretty much out of the question. Other than kayakers, I do not know of anyone who has been here (although I’m sure some have). I won’t say how I got here, it was all perfectly “legal” of course. I will say that you do need to cross the river. Of course, that is impossible when the river is high. On Saturday morning, however, the river was at 180 cfs. That is far downstream, up at the waterfall it is probably 1/3 of that amount. So basically, I thought, it might be crossable or it might not. I was able to cross the river without much difficulty. The river was flowing well, but there were some mellow sections. No problem. It was darn cold, though. It was wet and showery all morning, and I was drenched by the time I got to the falls. Was it worth getting so wet? Was it worth the effort and needing to take an extra long time to get down to it, and then having to hike back in the rain? Heck yes! What a magnificent 40 ft. plunge dropping into a narrow spectacular gorge. This was the LAST waterfall on the North Fork that I had yet to see, and after more than one try previously, I finally made it. Bagged! I have seen all eight waterfalls now on this amazing river. See my website if you want to know how to get to this one.

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THORN IN MY SIDEĀ 

Is it possible to get excited about a 13 ft. high waterfall? Yes it certainly is, if it is as adventurous as this one. The North Fork of the North Fork of the American River is a thorn in my side, and has been, like forever. It still is.

I almost did not make this hike. I am sick with a cold this weekend. On Friday night, I went to bed and slept horribly. I even turned off my alarm. I was not going to get up early to hike. But then I woke up at 4AM, and was feeling a little better. Should I stay or should I go? I knew that I would regret it if I did not go. And I knew that I would regret it if I did go. What a dilemma. Well guess what? I got up.

The road to the trailhead was far worse this year than last year. There are a few spots that seriously require a high clearance vehicle. Last year, I made it over them without difficulty, but this year I found that someone had built up the dirt mound, so I actually bottomed out going over them. The first mound I got by, barely, but the second one I bottomed out. It was very close, but no cigar. Ugh! I turned my vehicle around, then drove back up past that first mound, which I found to be more difficult going up then down, but I got by it. So now what do I do? Go home and back to bed? That sounded like a very good plan. However, I was less than a mile from the trailhead, and I drove out here all this way, so why not just hike from here? That is precisely what I did, of course.

I have a new backpack for backpacking, and today I was taking it out on a test run. It passed with flying colors, and I cannot wait to try it out for realz next week. You would not think I would need a backpack to go on a day hike, but I actually did today. The trail descends down to the river, then you need to walk upstream to a certain magical place called the Pool of Cold Fire. If you are ever here when the light is just right, you can understand why it is called that. The very first time I was here, I had that amazing light, but not in the times I have been here since. The trouble is, the river goes through a very narrow channel here, with towering cliffs on each side. The waterfall (waterfalls) are on the far side of the channel, and just out of sight. There is absolutely no way to get to the waterfalls without going through this channel. It is impossible to scale up the cliffs on either side of the river. The only way is to swim. However, swimming with expensive camera equipment is not a good plan. Thus we proceedeth with option 2: Buy a raft and drag it (or carry it in my new backpack) all the way down to the river, inflate it, and paddle up the channel to the other side.

I was rather nervous about paddling up this channel. Could I really do it? Would the current be too strong to paddle up, or instead take me far downstream before I could exit to shore? Would I flip the raft and dump all my precious camera equipment to the bottom of the river? What if I got to the other side and punctured the raft, then how would I get back? What if a big rock fell on me as I paddled up the channel? So many horror stories went through my fragile mind.

As it turned out, paddling up the channel was very easy, and very fun, and I had no problems. Until … I got to the other side. There is a big huge rock in the middle of the river, and another big rock protruding from the side into the river. The two openings on each side of the rock were far too small to squeeze my raft through. The river was very deep here, and there were no footholds to climb up on the rock. I was stuck. I could not figure out how to get by this obstacle, and I was almost ready to turn around in defeat. However, I saw that there was a large flat submerged rock, and I was able to get out of the raft and stand on it, while holding onto one of the other big rocks. I had to be careful not to dump out my camera equipment or the paddle, or even worse, let go of the raft and have it float by itself back downstream. It was also a bit sketchy to stand on, and tough to find good footholds, but once I secured myself, I dragged the raft across the opening to the other side of the rocks, then I lunged with one of my feet across to another submerged rock, which I pulled myself up onto, then plopped myself back into the raft. All was good. I then proceeded to paddle up the rest of the way to the end. Going back across that obstacle was much easier. Thank the Lord.

When I got to the end, I could see the waterfall around the corner. Not! It was hidden at the end of another deep pool, and around another corner. I dragged the raft through the deep river and up over some rapids and rocks, up to this other pool, then paddled across. At the end of this pool, I could see the waterfall, in fact it was awesome cool sitting there in my raft right up close to it. But there was no way I could take photos of it from the raft, and there was nowhere I could exit the raft here. So back I went, ditched the raft, and climbed up on the side of the sloping cliff. This was quite a bit sketchy, with dangerous dropoffs, but I was able to get in a position to photograph the falls, and back down safely afterwards.

This 13 ft. drop is actually only the bottom section of Lower North Fork Falls. There is an upper tier around the corner, and another drop just above. I had high hopes that I could continue up river from here, but there was no doing that. Again, the cliffs on both sides of the river were massive, with no possible way to continue up past this little waterfall. The NFNFAR has skumped me again. Well at least I got to see this little beauty. It was not a big loss at all.

Rafting back downstream was much easier and more relaxing. The hike back up to the car was not precisely relaxing, however. It is a very steep climb, and the gnats were out in force, I ate more than my fair share of them. Wasn’t there supposed to be a nice wind today? Apparently not. It was tough carrying the raft and gear back up the mountain, but the backpack did well and I am pleased with it. All in all, a fantastic day on the NFNFAR.

 

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ALL FIRED UP

Ain’t nobody livin’ in a perfect world
And everybody’s out there, cryin’ to be heard
And now I got a new fire, burnin’ in my eyes
Lightin’ up the darkness, movin’ like a meteorite
All fired up
Now I believe there comes a time
When everything just falls in line
We live an’ learn from our mistakes
The deepest cuts are healed by Faith – Pat Benatar

Shootings of police in Dallas, School shootings, Intolerance against Christians and saying hateful words to each other on Facebook/social media, False teachers claiming to be Christian yet promoting hatred against homosexuals and saying it is good that they are killed (make no mistake, anyone who hates is *not* a Christian – Jesus loves *everyone*), breaking laws, stealing, hurting others, even littering. I don’t know about you, but I am All Fired Up and completely sick of all this hate and hurting of one another. It is easy to say let’s all just love each other, but it is not so simple. That will never work, because the real (root) problem is that more and more people in the U.S. (and more every day) have abandoned and turned away from God. They cannot truly love because God is Love. As this trend continues, the situation will only get worse, and not ever better. If more people loved God, then more people would love each other, and there would be less hate and killing in the world and in this country. This is what I believe. Jesus is the only one that can save us.

Well onto better things …

I was definitely All Fired Up about this waterfall. All week long I was anxious to get here. When Jadon and I were here last weekend, I glimpsed this falls from a distance, it was a big one, and still flowing quite well, but we had no time to go up to it. I knew I would be back here this week. I absolutely had to come back. And so I did, and brought Jadon again as well.

This weekend we saw no one up at the lake. We had it all to ourselves. No over friendly dogs. No crazy OHVs driving through the middle of the lake. We did see one family walking down from the lake as we went up. They parked their car down the hill where we did. Smart people. That road gets crazy rough, and I would not want to drive my SUV up there any further than we did. It makes for a longer walk of course. Jadon would prefer the easy hikes, but he did not complain (much). The weather was slightly, but only slightly cooler than the previous week, and I think it was actually a few degrees warmer than it was supposed to be. And the mosquitoes were still biting. There was a nice breeze up at the lake, and no mosquitoes there, but down the road there was no breeze and that means prime flesh eating conditions for the little buggers.

It is actually a pretty easy hike to this waterfall, and there was even a well worn path to it, which means many people have been up here before. I thought this quite surprising because I have never heard of this waterfall being here. I knew about the lower falls, of course, but no one has ever mentioned the upper falls. It is 93 ft. high, and for a completely unmarked stream, it seems to have very good flow in the early summer, though I think it would have been much better a couple weeks earlier. Next year, I am sure I will be back. This area is spectacular.

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WAG THE DOG

Too hot in the valley. Let’s head up into the mountains, I say to my son. Okay, he says reluctantly. As if he had a choice.

It is a short hike to this waterfall, if you have a four wheel drive. You can almost drive to it, but the road is quite rough, so we walked more than I expected to. I have not been to this falls before, but I’ve been wanting to go for quite awhile now, and it seemed a good one to do since I did not want to do much of a hike in the hot weather. The mosquitoes were out so we quickly lathered ourselves in juice. That kept them away for a short time, but they kept coming back to munch on us. I might need to get some better repellent.

We climbed up on an open rocky area in front of the falls where I took my photos. The mosquitoes were not at this spot, thanks to a little breeze. Good thing.

After this I suggested we climb to the top of the falls. I thought there might be more falls above this. I said to Jadon we will need to go around, it is too steep and cliffy right beside the waterfall. He said, what are you talking about. It is easier to go straight up. And so he did. I followed him up. He was right, of course, it was no problem to go straight up. We found a couple smaller cascades, then continued up to Crater Lake. Not the one in Oregon. Obviously.

I have never been to this lake before. I will be back. Probably within a week. What a marvelous and pretty lake, and the surrounding area is spectacular. We did not have enough time to explore it all, and that is why I need to come back here soon. You will see why later.

We proceeded to the outlet of the lake, where we found a family on the other side of the creek with a OHV. Did you cross that creek in your OHV, I asked one of the kids there. Yes, my dad did. He is coming back now. We watched as he crossed back through the stream. The water here was more than 2 feet in depth, possibly close to 3 feet. Another kid was in the backseat screaming in excitement. After he crossed, I said to him, I gotta get me one of those things. What fun!

There was a strong breeze at the outlet stream. It felt so darn nice and kept the mosquitoes away. I was thinking very strongly that I could just stay right there all night long with that awesome breeze. But alas, we had to hike back down to our car before it got dark.

Along the way we passed a campsite with a dog. The dog came out to greet us, and he was about the friendliest dog I’ve ever seen. Its entire body wagged, not just its tail. It gave new meaning to the term “wag the dog”. He followed us up the road for about a half mile, and had no intention of going back to its owners. I’m sure it would have followed us all the way to our car. I told the dog to “go back”, “go home”, “sit”, “stay”. Nothing doing. He kept following us. Finally I told Jadon to go on ahead, and I would walk back to the campsite with the dog. But he kept following Jadon up the road, and would not come with me. Finally I enticed it to come with me (with a bit of cold meat perhaps?). When we got back to the campsite, the owners were nowhere to be seen. I yelled out “hello!”. Where were they all? I waited for awhile, then I heard someone chopping wood and yelled out again “can you please call back your dog?”. No wonder the dog wanted so badly to come with us, having owners that did not care one iota about him or where he was. I think we should have let the dog follow us back to our car, and took it home with us. Yes, my wife would have really liked that. Seriously.

 

 

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MILLER TIME

Out for a stroll this weekend, and I was up at 3AM. Ouch. I arrived at the trailhead at 5:30AM. This is the world famous and extremely popular Rubicon Trail. The parking lot was jam pack full with cars and trailers. Ouch. I expected there to be people and jeeps on the trail, but not this many. It is summertime. I had actually wanted to come on this hike much earlier in the spring, but this was the first chance I had this year. It was time to go see Miller Creek Falls. It was Miller Time. I managed to squeeze my SUV into one of the only remaining spaces.

Well hopefully I would not see any jeeps on the trail. Yeah right. Going into the waterfall, indeed I did not see anyone, but coming back? Hmph. As for the weather, it was a cool and very pleasant 37 degrees. A nice start to the day, but it would warm up quickly, and with the warmth would come nightmarish mosquitoes. I was hoping to at least get to the waterfall before the mosquitoes came out to play. I did not quite make it.

Along the way, I pass 4 alpine lakes. If lakes can be ugly (can they be ugly?) then these ones were ugly. Well, the third one was quite nice, but the others were just completely covered with vegetation, like a big bog. They were not very scenic. But anyway, I continued on. I could see the creek had quite a bit of water, which was a good sign, as I was not sure how well the falls would still be flowing since it is already summer. Now I just had to get down there before the sun. If I stopped at all, the skeeters were over me. Needless  to say I only stopped the one time.

It was a pretty easy hike until I got to the top of the waterfall. From there I could see nothing but cliff. How would I get down? I hummed and hawed, I was running out of time, I just decided to go for it. But carefully go for it, of course. No need to jump off the cliff. There was a perfect little ledge that took me right to the bottom of the waterfall. If it were not there, I don’t think it would be possible to get to the falls. Thank you ledge. Or rather, thank you God for putting it there. 

Miller Creek Falls is gorgeous, 54 feet high in total. And there was even more than this one. It is a very awesome little creek and I will be back here someday to explore it fully.

I lathered up in Skeeter juice for the hike back. Unfortunately, I did see quite a few jeeps coming up the trail. The first one was a Ranger, and he asked me where I was coming from. I believe he thought I was backpacking somewhere. I was wearing my big camera pack of course, and many people have mistaken it for a backpack. This Ranger will not be the last to do that. But if I was backpacking, then I would need a permit and I think that’s what he was wondering about. Actually, I did not know if I was in the wilderness or not at this point, and if so would I need a permit even for day hiking? I’ve been asked for them before when hiking in the Desolation Wilderness. I told him I was just on a day hike and down at the waterfall, all the while swatting the mosquitoes away from my face (he made me stop in a mosquito zone in order to talk to me). He let me go quickly, perhaps because he felt sorry for me, standing there swatting mosquitoes. I do wonder though if he even knew there was a waterfall down there.

After that I saw about 10,000 more jeeps and OHVs. I wondered where they all had parked, because the lot really was completely full when I had gotten there this morning. I hoped no one had blocked me in, keeping me stuck there all weekend. How nice would that be. By the time I got back to the car, I was thoroughly annoyed with them all for sure. For each one, I had to get off the road, stop and wait for them to pass, give them a polite wave with one hand, swatting mosquitoes with the other. I guess that is what you get for hiking on the single most popular jeep trail in the summertime, and on the weekend. Shame on me.

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