Leon Turnbull Photography

It was time to return to the Bay Area after the recent rain. It is always a crapshoot with the waterfalls there. Will there be enough water or not? It had not really rained all that much but I thought they should be ok. Famous last words.

It has been 20 years since I have been to this spot. I know my memory is not what it used to be but it seems to me the parking used to be better. Residents have blocked off areas in front of their houses so no one can park there anymore. This is a public park. Why isn’t there any decent parking here? It is very annoying. I arrived at sunrise and I found one and only one place to park along the road. Better than nothing, I suppose.

I hiked up to the lower Cascade Falls first and took photos. After this my goal was to go to the Upper Cascade Falls, which I have not been to before, and a third waterfall as well. I hoped to get to all three of these because frankly, with the horrible parking situation, I never want to return here again. Well, I could have done this, except I went the wrong way to Upper Cascade Falls. Ugh. The way I went was a good path but it was a tough climb and then a tough descent back down to the creek. Some poison oak likely touched along the way as well. I found the waterfall.

Upper Cascade Falls (aka the Inkwell, aka the Plunge), is 20 ft. high exactly (with two tiers). I had to jump across the creek for the best view with both tiers in the photo. I did not plunge into the depths of the water although the creek was flowing pretty good. There was a lot of water flowing in all the creeks and I was a bit surprised (and pleased). I’m not positive (as I said, my memory is failing), but I actually think I have been to the upper falls before but just did not realize it was Upper Cascade Falls. It is not exactly a very striking waterfall.

Since the hike to the upper falls took a lot longer than expected (because I went the wrong way), I did not have time to go to the third waterfall. I had to meet my wife and daughter for lunch. Nekoda is going back to college for her next semester so we were dropping her (and all her stuff) off at her dorm room. I will have to come back here for the other waterfall (and deal with the parking again). It was a beautiful morning in Marin County.

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I debated whether to share this photo or not. In the end I decided the picture is not really too horrible and it is worth it for the story.

It was a frustrating weekend. For myself. For Tara. For Nekoda.

My wife Tara is seriously sick. A long story but your prayers would be appreciated for her recovery.

In the meantime Nekoda had her big dance competition this weekend in San Jose. This is a huge deal for her. Tara would normally be the one to take her but obviously she could not do that this year. Enter the dad. Certainly I did not mind doing this and happy to help both of them out. I’m sure Nekoda would have preferred having her mom but I think she was quite satisfied with me being there.

In addition, I would actually have time to hike while she was dancing (or sleeping). Since she did not have to start in the morning until 10:30AM or so, I could go for a quick morning hike both days as long as it was close enough to the hotel.

I had an epic plan for Saturday morning. There was snow! We had very unusual low elevation snow in California this weekend. It really was going to be an epic hike. Except all the roads were closed! But were they? Apple maps was showing closures with no possible way to get to my planned destination on either side. However, Google maps was showing different. Some roads were open. There was a way. I suspected Google would be the one that was correct so off I went on Saturday morning with high hopes. But alas, I came to the closed road well before I could reach my destination. Google was wrong. I returned to the hotel in defeat and waited for Nekoda to wake up so we could go get breakfast together before her dance class.

In the afternoon I had more free time. I did not have to pick Nekoda up until 8:30PM. I decided to drive to the coast. I knew those roads were open. I planned to hike to Purisima Creek Falls and wait until sunset for taking photos. Enter my new frustration: the San Mateo County park system. All the parks in this county do not open until well after sunrise and close at 5PM, well before sunset. There were big and plentiful signs saying the gates closed at 5PM promptly and do not be late or you will get locked in. Ugh. Sunset was at 6PM. I waited at the waterfall viewpoint for as long as I possibly could, hoping for some clouds over the sun. It was not to be. I ran back to the trailhead in order to get back to the car by 5PM and not get locked in. I did not get the good sunset photo that I wanted.

I thought about coming back the next morning in the dark and sneaking in before the gate opened. I probably should have done that but instead I went on a different hike closer to the hotel. That one did not work out either because the creek was almost completely dry. (I won’t be sharing that photo). Strike three.

What about Nekoda? Her big day was on Sunday. She had a solo dance and two group dances. Last year she won an “honorable mention” award for her solo dance and hoped for the same or better this year. She danced absolutely beautifully and perfectly. She did not win an award this year. I am sure you can imagine her disappointment. I was upset. She was ripped off. She totally deserved an honorable mention at the very least, if not better. I’m not just saying that as her dad (but of course it is true I’m biased). Well, she can still be pleased that she danced her best and we are all very proud of her. It was a nice father daughter weekend in the Bay Area.

 

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The rain is gone. The sun is out. It is time to go backpacking. Point Reyes National Seashore was not my first choice. I had big plans to backpack in Ventana Wilderness (at least a couple times this winter) but then they closed the forest for two months. What the heck? There is no more flooding. There is no more rain. Why would you need to close the entire forest now? And for two months? This really really annoyed me. It has also ruined my hiking and backpacking plans this winter. Well, time to turn elsewhere I guess. The Wildcat permit is incredibly difficult to obtain. You need to plan this trip months in advance. Of course I did not do that since I had no plans to go here. However, at the last minute I discovered there was one permit left for the weekend. It must be a miracle. I snatched it up as fast as I could. Point Reyes here I come.

Since the Palomarin road was still closed I had to start my hike from Bear Valley visitor center. This was not a big deal. It is only about one mile longer. I started my hike at about 8:30am and arrived at camp an easy 3 hours later at 11:30am. I set up camp, ate my lunch, and then settled in for the long wait. There was one other couple in the campground (others arrived later). My neighbor couple said they saw a bobcat in the campground just before I got there. I hoped to see it as well. Later at night I did see a strange animal in the dark but I don’t know if was the bobcat or not. Some sort of “wildcat” perhaps, though it seemed more like a weasel size (but who knows – it was dark).

Horsetail Falls … so … hummm … I have had this on my radar for a long time. I have only seen it from the bluffs at a very long distance (six years ago). You cannot get up close to the waterfall except at a minus tide. There was a minus tide on this day at about sunset. The timing would be perfect. I just had to wait 5 hours until the end of day.

I started hiking up the beach at about 3:30pm. I had loads of time to spare. I saw one other couple had gone up this way in the afternoon. When they passed me going the other way I saw they had their big backpacks on. Why would they carry their heavy packs up here? The only possible reason is if they were trying to find an (illegal) camping spot. Apparently they did not find one because they were going back. It certainly would not have been very smart to camp up here. At high tide the waves are literally crashing against the cliffs, but with a minus tide I easily made it up to Horsetail Falls. If you think Wildcat Beach at Pt Reyes is the most beautiful beach on Earth, I would not argue with you. However, the beach at Horsetail Falls I just might rank a tad higher. Perhaps because it is more remote and a lot harder to reach but it is absolutely out of this world breathtaking. I still had an hour to spare so I continued on past all the shore birds to the end of the beach where there is a spectacular arch at Millers Point. That was as far as I could continue at a minus tide. I retreated back to the waterfall.

Even though it had only been only five days since the last of the storms, the flow in Horsetail Falls and Phantom Falls was much reduced, probably half the flow or less since I was at Pt Reyes five days previously. It was a bit disappointing (especially Phantom Falls). You would think these streams could hold their flow for a lot longer after so much rain. I’m ready for more rain now, please.

Sunset was at 5:20pm and I had to wait until 5:20pm before I could take any photos. There was still a bit of light on the waterfall but it was gorgeous.

Now I had to literally run back to Phantom Falls in order to take photos of that waterfall. It was a half mile and I ran on the beach as fast as I could. I barely had enough light left to take photos of Phantom Falls. Now I could relax again and walked back to my campsite in the dark. Along the way I saw some deer walking slowly along the beach, so slowly that I caught up with them. At first I was not sure if they saw me or not because it was dark, but then I realized they did notice me, they just did not care that I was there. They scrambled up the cliffs (I went the easy way) and I saw them again back at my campsite. Again, they did not care that I was standing right beside them in my campsite. They just went about their business, scrounging for food. I saw them sleeping in the bushes later. I did not see them in the morning. I did see little birds, however. They were worse than the deer. They were all around and came up within a foot of me and they did not care at all that I was there. Obviously they were very used to seeing people!

It was a very cold night in the tent even though it should not have been (it was above 40 degrees). I think the wind made it feel a lot colder than normal. I woke up, made my breakfast, and watched the waves crashing against the cliffs (it was not even high tide yet) while I drank my coffee to warm me up. I would have gone to Alamere Falls but the high tide did not allow me. I arrived back at my car at 11:30am. It was a glorious weekend at Point Reyes National Seashore.

 

 

 

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This is from my hike last weekend. The fifth of five waterfalls I saw that fall onto the beach on the California coast. This is Palomarin Falls, 151 ft. high. Last time I was here, Palomarin Falls was just a trickle. It was so nice to see this one flowing decently well. It is a beauty. Just be sure to come here immediately after it rains.

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My initial plan was to hike to RCA Beach Falls then back to the car, and then drive to the Palomarin trailhead to do my second hike in the afternoon. However, the road to Palomarin was closed, apparently due to flooding. I saw no flooding on the road. So why the heck was it closed? There were a ton of people this day wanting to hike to Alamere Falls and they either turned back or had to walk an extra 5 miles. For no good reason whatsoever. Indeed I found out later according to the park website that I (and all the other people) were not even allowed to walk on the road. What is wrong with the park service, not letting people hike to Alamere Falls?

I had a second option. After hiking to RCA Beach Falls I would continue up the beach to Arroyo Hondo Falls (which I have been to before). I would then cross this creek and continue on my second hike to the other waterfalls and then I would hike back on the main road to my car. Now this would be interesting. Arroyo Hondo is a large creek. With all the rain we had it was very questionable that I could cross it at all. Well it was definitely flowing very strong but as it turned out it was not difficult to cross it. But did I even want to go on the second hike? It was too sunny. What would be the point of going to the other waterfalls? I sat down at Arroyo Hondo Falls and ate my lunch and thought about it for quite a long time. As I pondered the dilemma, I saw that clouds (and perhaps a storm) were coming in from over the ocean. It might actually cloud over in the afternoon. I decided to continue on. Of course the storm and clouds never materialized and it remained sunny all afternoon. Sigh.

I have not been to Bass Falls before. It requires a very low tide to access and perhaps a minus tide. It was not a minus tide today but it was low enough that I thought I would be able to make it if I timed it correctly. It was a beautiful and fun hike along the beach and I had no trouble making it to the waterfall. Now I just had to wait again for clouds to pass in front of the sun. Bass Falls is quite interesting. It looks very different now from pictures I have seen. There was a huge rock slide right in front of the waterfall. In addition to this the flow seems to be altered somehow up on top. It is not as photogenic as it used to be. Sometimes waterfalls are strange.

I retreated back along the beach. I could have gone the same way (via RCA Beach) but I decided that I had enough of beach walking for today. The rocky sections of the beach are very hard to walk on and my feet were quite sore. It might be a bit longer but I figured it would be a lot easier to hike on the road. Getting down to the Palomarin beach used to be very easy. This trail has also been washed out now. There is a very sketchy rope ladder to climb up the cliff and get onto the trail. It was very debatable if the rope was going to hold my weight. A fall here would have really hurt or involved breakage of bones. I made it up and once on the trail the going was very easy the rest of the way. I found out that the trail is actually closed because of the washout (but there were no signs down on the beach so how could I have known?). Once on the road I saw a lot of people walking, supposedly going to Alamere Falls (where else would they be going?). This made no sense to me. It was now 3pm and they had 6 miles to hike to Alamere Falls. There is no way they would even get to the waterfall before dark (never mind the hike back). Some of them seemed ill prepared, not even carrying any water (and most likely not carrying head lamps either). Why would you go on such a big hike so late in the day? People are strange, I think. It was a most fabulous day in Point Reyes National Seashore.

 

 

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