DAY 1. MAGICAL RUBICON
Spring is my favorite time of year to go backpacking. Most people prefer summer. That is understandable but for me it is spring. Why? 1. WATERFALLS 2. NO BUGS 3. PLEASANT WEATHER (NOT HOT) 4. FEW PEOPLE. Spring backpacking has a lot more challenges: high flow creek crossings, snow, access to trailheads, parking issues (something I learned this year – some towns close off all overnight parking in winter and early spring which is very annoying). If you plan properly, you can get around these issues. It is worth it. This was my second backpacking trip of the spring so far this year and I’d have to say, it is probably top five of all the backpacking trips that I have done in my life.
What are my top five? I am talking about the best places I have camped, not the best waterfalls I have seen. I think Lake Aloha/Waterfall Camp, and West Cherry Creek Canyon (three different spots). After that, I would add in this one: Rubicon River. This may surprise you. It surprises me because I have never heard of the Rubicon as being such a stunning location before. It would not be so stunning in the summer, but in the spring the waterfalls and river are spectacular. I saw nine waterfalls in three days, and some of them were absolute wowzers.
I started my hike at the Rubicon Trail trailhead. This is the world famous Rubicon Trail. It is extremely popular in the summer. The only time I’ve been here before was in the summer and the trailhead was completely packed before sunrise. This time there was just one other vehicle here.
I decided to leave my snowshoes in the car. There was no snow at the trailhead. I had to climb about 400 ft. so I expected some snow but not too much. I also expected the trail to be packed down from the jeepers so snowshoes would not be necessary. I would be getting off the trail at the top; hopefully I would not be needing them for that section. This was what I was thinking before I started and it turned out to be fairly close to reality.
There were a lot of snow patches as I hiked up the trail. A lot of obstacles. Huge puddles in the road that I could not walk through. I either had to bushwhack around them or walk beside them on quickly deteriorating snow bridges. The snow was melting rapidly and it was soft. Only one jeep had been up here recently so the snow on the road could be walked on but it was still soft. I ran into those jeepers camping at Miller Lake about 3 miles in. After that no jeep had been on the road. This was unfortunate because the snow was soft and now I was sinking in. I could have used snowshoes but I managed. There were other obstacles such as numerous creek crossings. Again, I had to cross these on logs or weak snow bridges. Nothing was too horrible, it was just very slow going.
I finally reached my turnoff point where I had to get off the trail and go down to the Rubicon River. It was open and in the sun here, and all the snow had melted. This made me happy. I would be done with the snow for the rest of the day. I would be descending 1200 ft. to the river but now I had other obstacles: cliffs and brush. I had mapped out what I thought was a good route on Google Earth so I was mostly sure I could make it down, but not 100% sure. It worked out pretty well. There was one short section that was incredibly steep and incredibly brushy. I almost did not make it but I persevered through it. After that I came upon one of the most majestic traverses I have ever walked. It is only about a mile but I was walking along the top of the ridge above the Rubicon River. Across the canyon, snowy mountains and waterfalls. Down in the canyon, a roaring river. It was spectacular and very easy hiking along the ridge. The entire hike was worth it just for this one short section. But I was not done yet.
My original plan was to continue past the Rubicon Cascades. The reason was because from my study on Google Earth it did not look like there would be any camping down at the cascades. It is a very steep descent all the way to the river and it did not look like there was anything down there but cliffs, and in fact, I was not sure I could even make it down to the river. Certainly not any place to put a tent. I planned to continue on another hour or so past the cascades to find a better place to camp. HOWEVER, when I arrived along the ridge directly above the cascades I could see down to the bottom and I could see there were flat areas where I would definitely be able to camp. I decided to go down here instead of continuing on. I was already very tired and I did not want to be hiking any further (with more bushwhacking also). It was the best decision I’ve ever made (or close to it).
It was very steep getting down to the river but do-able. I arrived down at the Rubicon Cascades and found a perfect camping spot at the bottom right beside the river. There were other spots but this was the best one. It was absolutely stunning here. The fast rushing river. The magnificent canyon walls on the other side. Waterfalls. It was Heaven on Earth.
There was a fire pit at my tent spot so obviously someone had been here before. However, I suspect it is from kayakers, not from hikers. Has anyone ever hiked here before? Maybe, but who knows. I setup my camp and ate my dinner. While I was eating, a stunt plane flew up the canyon, directly overhead. He wasn’t doing anything too fancy, just tilting his wings back and forth, but it was interesting. After dinner, I went upstream to explore all the waterfalls. There are five here. This one I am naming Devils Peak Falls, about a 130 ft. drop off a cliff into Rubicon Canyon, my favorite of the waterfalls here. It was a magical day on the Rubicon River.
May 5th, 2021 at 7:46 am
Fantastic description of a magical place. Never have been, but now on the bucket list. Devils Peak Falls is stunningly rugged with just a touch of trees to soften.
May 5th, 2021 at 10:34 am
it is an amazing place and difficult to get to. thanks!
May 6th, 2021 at 8:04 pm
I was looking at doing the whole Rubicon from hellhole up to Clyde last year- didn’t do it, just looked at sat pics.
I have seen upper miller, but obviously never heard of a fall on Barker. Looks like West meadow creek drops down steeply, but I bet it would take a big year to make it look good!
May 7th, 2021 at 3:19 am
there is definitely a waterfall on West Meadow creek.I’m sure I will be back there someday.